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ABOUT DUTCH OVEN COOKING

January 30, 2019 By Weber Modifications


A Dutch Oven is a must for delicious camp-out feasts! Just about anything you cook in a regular oven — pies, bread, stew — can be whipped up in a Dutch Oven, using hot charcoal in your campfire ring. Dutch Ovens are commonly defined to be any covered metal cooking pot. The kind used for camping is made of heavy cast-iron though, has three short legs on the bottom, and a tight fitting lid with a rim to hold coals. Dutch Ovens that do not have legs, are flat on the bottom and have a highly domed basting lid without a rim for coals are called “Bean Pots” or “Kitchen” Dutch Ovens. They can be used with coals, but are better suited to use on a stove top or in the oven. The only way to successfully cook in a Dutch Oven is to properly season it first. When you buy a new Dutch Oven it is usually coated with a waxy material to protect it. To obtain the desirable non-stick properties of a well-used pot takes a little time and effort. To season your Dutch Oven, wash the Dutch Oven with mild soapy water, rinse, and dry completely. Grease inside and out (pot, legs, and lid) lightly with a good grade of olive or vegetable oil (I prefer solid shortening e.g., Crisco). Do not use lard or other animal products as they will spoil and turn rancid! Do not use a spray on coating, but rather use an oil-soaked paper towel or a new sponge. Place greased Dutch Oven upside down on oven rack with lid separate and put aluminum foil underneath to catch any excess oil. Bake in a 300-350 degree oven for at least 1 hour (it will probably smoke and stink up your house!). If you’d rather heat it outside to avoid the smell and smoke in your house you can do that also… a gas grill works great for this.
It will take more than this initial seasoning for the pot to obtain the desired uniform black patina (like a satin black bowling ball) that provides the non-stick qualities and protects the pot from rust, but the seasoning on your pot will improve with each use if it is properly oiled and cared for. Re-season your pot regularly and especially if it starts to rust or has a metallic taste —
this is a sign your seasoning has been removed. Repeat seasoning steps if this happens. You should also re-season after storage or if it smells rancid. Once your Dutch Oven is seasoned it should never be scrubbed with soap. Store the oven in a warm, dry place with the lid cracked so air can circulate inside. Cooking Tips: For easy cleanup, line the bottom and the sides of the Dutch Oven with aluminum foil. Use a wooden spoon to stir, and always cook with the lid on. Unless you like ashes in your food, don’t tilt the lid when you remove it. When you do remove the lid or handle any part of the hot oven, use cooking gloves or hot-pot tongs. A Dutch oven seems indestructible, but it will shatter if dropped on hard cement or it will crack if cold water is poured into a very hot Dutch oven. NEVER, REPEAT,
NEVER! pour very cold water into an empty hot pot or you may cause permanent damage to the oven (cracking)! Heat control is the hardest thing to master when learning to cook with a Dutch Oven. Remember to start with moderate temperatures. You can always add more heat if desired or necessary. Be cautious, as most guests don’t enjoy burned food! High-quality briquettes are recommended. Briquettes provide a long-lasting, even heat source and are easier to use than wood coals. Briquettes will last for about an hour and will need to be replenished if longer cooking times are required. Group the smaller briquettes and add new ones (hot) as required to maintain the desired temperature. Rule of thumb: Each briquette adds between 10 & 20 degrees. Different types of cooking require different placement of the briquettes. Here are a few general rules for briquette
placement:
For Roasting: The heat source comes from the top and bottom equally. This requires twice as many coals on top as on the bottom.
For Baking: The heat source comes from the top more than the bottom. Place 3 times as many coals on the lid.
For Boiling, Frying, Stewing, Simmering: All of the heat comes from the bottom. All coals are placed beneath the Dutch Oven.
Place the required # of briquettes under the oven bottom in a circular pattern so they are at least 1/2″ inside the Dutch Oven’s edge. Arrange briquettes on top in a checkerboard pattern. Do not bunch briquettes as they can cause hot spots. To prevent (minimize) hot spots during cooking, get in the habit to lift and rotate the entire oven 1/4 turn and then rotate just the lid 1/4 turn in the opposite direction. Rotate every 10-15 minutes. If you use wood coals, remember that the flame will be much hotter
than the coals! Avoid direct flames on the pot or turn frequently. It is important to remember that these tips are only a guide to help you get started. You will need to adjust briquettes (or coals) according to the recipe and keep in mind that the weather, ambient temperature, and ground conditions can affect cooking temperature.
Here is a handy guide for the number of charcoal briquettes needed for different sized Dutch Ovens to reach a desired
temperature level:
8″ DUTCH OVEN: 10″ DUTCH OVEN

9
325 degrees – 15 coals …OR… 10 on top / 5 on bottom 325 degrees – 19 coals …OR… 13 on top / 6 on bottom
350 degrees – 16 coals …OR… 11 on top / 5 on bottom 350 degrees – 21 coals …OR… 14 on top / 7 on bottom
375 degrees – 17 coals …OR… 11 on top / 6 on bottom 375 degrees – 23 coals …OR… 16 on top / 7 on bottom
400 degrees – 18 coals …OR… 12 on top / 6 on bottom 400 degrees – 25 coals …OR… 17 on top / 8 on bottom
425 degrees – 19 coals …OR… 13 on top / 6 on bottom 425 degrees – 27 coals …OR… 18 on top / 9 on bottom
450 degrees – 20 coals …OR… 14 on top / 6 on bottom 450 degrees – 29 coals …OR… 19 on top / 10 on bottom
12″ DUTCH OVEN: 14″ DUTCH OVEN:
325 degrees – 23 coals …OR… 16 on top / 7 on bottom 325 degrees – 30 coals …OR… 20 on top / 10 on bottom
350 degrees – 25 coals …OR… 17 on top / 8 on bottom 350 degrees – 32 coals …OR… 21 on top / 11 on bottom
375 degrees – 27 coals …OR… 18 on top / 9 on bottom 375 degrees – 34 coals …OR… 22 on top / 12 on bottom
400 degrees – 29 coals …OR… 19 on top / 10 on bottom 400 degrees – 36 coals …OR… 24 on top / 12 on bottom
425 degrees – 31 coals …OR… 21 on top / 10 on bottom 425 degrees – 38 coals …OR… 25 on top / 13 on bottom
450 degrees – 33 coals …OR… 22 on top / 11 on bottom 450 degrees – 40 coals …OR… 26 on top / 14 on bottom
16″ DUTCH OVEN:
325 degrees – 34 coals …OR… 22 on top / 12 on bottom
350 degrees – 36 coals …OR… 24 on top / 12 on bottom
375 degrees – 38 coals …OR… 25 on top / 13 on bottom
400 degrees – 40 coals …OR… 27 on top / 13 on bottom
425 degrees – 42 coals …OR… 28 on top / 14 on bottom
450 degrees – 44 coals …OR… 30 on top / 14 on bottom
NOTE: For cooking times over an hour additional charcoal may be necessary. Either have another batch ready to go after about
an hour and a half or, at about an hour, place unlit briquettes next to those on and under the oven to ignite them.

Filed Under: Outdoor Cooking

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January 28, 2019 By Weber Modifications

The Israeli Chef Making Ancient Rotten Fish Sauce the Not-so-traditional Way

Abie, the Doktor

It’s the morning of October 29. In the evening, Abie, the new restaurant owned by brothers Yotam and Asaf Doktor (proprietors of two other Tel Aviv eateries, Haachim and Dok) was to open its doors to clients for a trial run. Chef Asaf was worried, not only because of the grand occasion and the pressure of managing service and staff in a new location, but also because an unfortunate incident had occurred the morning before. “The chefs broke the last bottle of garum we’d prepared,” he said glumly. “I didn’t explode in a fit of anger – but I almost blew up inside. We’re making another batch of garum, but it won’t be ready for a few weeks.”

Garum, a basic element of the Mediterranean diet until the Middle Ages, is a sauce derived from salted, fermented fish, notable for its complex salinity and umami taste. In ancient times it was prepared by drying and fermenting small fish such as anchovies and sardines, together with their innards, in straw baskets or clay barrels that were placed out in the sun. In the past few months, Asaf Doktor, known to all as Dok or Doktor, experimented with the preparation of traditional garum, intended as a cooking ingredient and condiment for some of the dishes on the new menu.

“Some people want to go forward with progress, but my interest is to go back, to the traditions and the roots,” he says. “I have no problem using modern technology. I have a sous-vide cooker in the kitchen, and it cuts down the time to prepare garum from 6 months to 11 weeks. To accelerate the fermentation process, caused by enzymes originating in the fish guts, we used barley koji that we got thanks to the Dok restaurant. Because [the menu] is based exclusively on local ingredients produced in Israel, and because we invited the public to share interesting raw ingredients with us, almost every day someone knocks on the door and brings something. In this case, it’s a young man from a kibbutz in the north who’s interested in fermentation processes and who makes barley koji and miso.”

At Abie, Asaf and Yotam Doktor’s fish restaurant in Tel Aviv. Dan Perez

Curiosity about the past and the tendency to treat the restaurant’s kitchen as an experimental research laboratory is manifested in Abie’s most prominent feature: an immense wood-fired grill – 3.5 meters long, half a meter deep – that dominates the narrow, elongated space. Abie is named “a little for Abe Lincoln, like the street, and a lot for Abie Nathan, a restaurateur and person of peace who understood long before all of us that there’s a shared Mediterranean space,” says Asaf. It’s the next stage in the development of the restaurant business for the Doktor brothers and their partners.

Haachim, opened in 2011 on Ibn Gabirol Street in Tel Aviv, is a modern skewers restaurant based on a charcoal-fired grill. Dok is a small, intimate bar-and-restaurant adjacent to it, which opened in 2015. “Abie is something of a combination of the two,” Asaf Doktor says, “but a wood grill takes the place of the charcoal grill. For the local ingredients we’ll go with a less rigid version than in Dok – here you can have a coffee and eat tahini – but we will still work with small manufacturers who supply most of the products – the primary one being local fish. There’s no meat, only fish and vegetables.

“We work with four different fishmongers to try and acquire the best catch: fish imported only from the Mediterranean – Cyprus and Egypt – and hopefully importation of mussels and fish from Greece will also develop; and fish [raised in] local sweet-water ponds, mostly St. Peter’s fish and trout, which in my view have achieved excellent quality. When fishing in the Mediterranean stops during the reproduction period, we’ll serve a more pared-down menu, which will include fish from breeding ponds and pickled and preserved fish that we prepare ourselves.”

At Abie, Asaf and Yotam Doktor’s fish restaurant in Tel Aviv. Dan Perez

Cooking at the primal level

It’s enthralling to watch the big grill, in which two or three fires at different stages are always burning, and the work of the cooks, who incessantly need to feed the fire or shift a burning ember. “It’s cooking at the most primal level,” a cook who visited the restaurant early in the trial run said in amazement. “To throw logs on the fire, like in the past, and over them to grill animals, vegetables and fruits. In the modern age, cooking processes are hidden behind sophisticated instruments and techniques, but here you’re reminded anew of how the controlled use of fire was a driving force in human development.”

“Charcoal is also made of wood,” Dok says, explaining the choice of a wood-fired oven that entailed installation of a complex, costly system of chimneys and smoke filters to meet environmental standards. “But the burn and emission of charcoal are different,” he adds. “In a way, as with the challenge of local raw ingredients that we set at Dok, we’re making it hard on ourselves. With charcoal you skip the combustion stage and get a stable, long-lasting fire. With a wood stove, we have to start by igniting the fires, created from twigs with logs atop them, hours before the service; and because wood is more dynamic, we need to ensure a fire nonstop.

“It’s a headache,” he continues, “but it makes the work more interesting, with the goal of making the aromas and flavors more interesting, too. Working with wood also allows us to place the foods above the fire – at different levels of proximity to the flames or to the glowing coals – on thin nets, instead of the thick nets that a coal-fired grill requires.”

At Abie, Asaf and Yotam Doktor’s fish restaurant in Tel Aviv. Dan Perez

Wood for the fire comes from agricultural refuse provided by farmers who cut down trees, old groves and orchards; the main types at the moment are pomegranate, citrus and olive trees. The wood-fired oven is used simultaneously for grilling, for slow or fast cooking of fish, shellfish and vegetables, and for smoking fish heads and bones to produce stock. (The sight of fish hanging on a steel hook above the source of the fire makes you think of still lifes by Chaim Soutine or larder paintings by Juan Sanchez Cotan; the image will surely become an icon readily identified with the restaurant.)

The wood oven, covered with red bricks, also includes a hot smoker. The range of fish and cooking techniques made possible by this oven prompts thoughts about the use of the sea creatures’ less familiar parts, which usually get thrown out. One day in the restaurant’s trial run, an excellent stew of turnips cooked on the grill and then smoked together with the flesh of triggerfish heads was served. The next day came triggerfish stock and heads of little tunny with saffron and fennel.

In the first two weeks of the trial run – the restaurant opened in the season when fishermen return to the sea (between summer and winter, or what optimists call the “Israeli autumn”) – the first diners enjoyed excellent dishes based on blue crabs, striped sea bream, anchovies, Spanish mackarel, greater amberjack, chub mackerel and other local fish. The grilled trout, from local ponds, is also very good; and even better is the St. Peter’s fish, also raised in local ponds, served deep fried as is the custom here. “Frying enhances St. Peter’s fish,” Dok says. “I’ve noticed that wherever I go in the world people respect it and present it as the crowning glory of the local kitchen. Maybe the time has come for a renaissance of St. Peter’s fish in the Israeli consciousness, too.” Served with the fish is a selection of Mediterranean mezze, such as homemade ikra, labaneh and a spread made from fava beans and grilled vegetables.

Abie is located in a strange-looking concrete building that used to be a telephone exchange and had been abandoned in recent years. The nearest neighbor in the small, neglected commercial center, opposite excavations for the light train project, is a local supermarket. Like the brothers’ other two restaurants, which appear to have successfully captured the elusive essence of Israeliness, the design and atmosphere of the new establishment create a relaxed feeling free of formality and luxury elements.

Abie, Lincoln 16, Tel Aviv, 03-777-5161

Ronit Vered

Haaretz Contributor


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What to Cook This Weekend

January 25, 2019 By Weber Modifications

Slow-cooked (outdoors or indoors) pork shoulder.

Slow-cooked (outdoors or indoors) pork shoulder. Credit Paola & Murray for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.

Slow-cooked (outdoors or indoors) pork shoulder.CreditCreditPaola & Murray for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.

By Sam Sifton

Good morning. Our Gabrielle Hamilton makes a powerful argument for cooking a pork shoulder on an outdoor grill this weekend, even if — and perhaps especially if — the glass is at zero and there’s snow underfoot.

“Maybe I can persuade you to recall the miseries of grilling on oppressive thick August afternoons,” she wrote in her “Eat” columnfor The Times. “The sweat that trickles down the backs of your knees when you stand over that kettle of white hot coals. The way the humidity hangs so heavily that the smoke can’t plume or swirl away and instead attaches itself to you, stinging your eyes — and everyone else’s too. The scorching of your palms and knuckles when you baste the chicken even with the longest-handled brush you have.”

And so: a pork shoulder rubbed with chile paste (above) cooked beneath the dome of a grill fueled by wood, in the still of the winter cold. It’s a Frost poem about barbecue, a thing to make alone, for others, simply because that is how it is done best. And wouldn’t that be great?

I recommend accompaniments to GH’s food at my peril. Once I told her my idea for grinding up popcorn spiced with chile oil and using it to top something else — a piece of fried fish? She stared at me for a moment to see if I was joking, and then a few more after that in the way of discipline, which left me quiet for a day.

Nevertheless! I do love smoky pork with this hot Mexican-style coleslaw, with charred cabbage and crema.

Back inside, I’d like a sour-cream coffee cake on Sunday morning, I think. (You might prefer a breakfast salad, after all that pork.) I’d like a tuna club sandwich for lunch, in the style of the old-school Union Square Cafe. And, for dinner, I’m thinking moo shu pork with a side dish of smashed cucumbers. Those all seem like a good way to spend the day, indoors.

It’d be neat, while you’re in the kitchen, to cook a little in advance of next week’s needs. Some bone broth from the pressure cooker for a breakfast treat, winter’s kombucha, silky and strong? You could make a black bean and chorizo casserole that’ll pick up flavor in the fridge, so you can luxuriate in it on Tuesday or Wednesday night. It’s always a good time to make Dorie Greenspan’s lemon-spice visiting cake, for breakfasting, for snacking, for eating after dinner.

There are many thousands mores recipes to consider cooking this weekend awaiting you on NYT Cooking. Go browse our digital aisles. (You’ll need a subscription to access the site, just as you need one to watch the Fyre Festival fraud documentaries on Netflix and Hulu. Join us today!) Come visit us on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter as well, for inspiration, conversation and laughter. (Or visit me on Instagramfor dad-joke lifestyle journalism.) And if you want to get in touch or need help with a recipe or the technology, write to us for help: cookingcare@nytimes.com. We love to help.

Now, it’s a far cry from pastured lamb and CBD-infused balsamic vinegar, but I loved Krista Tippett’s 2015 interview with the poet Mary Oliver, which she brought back to the radio in the wake of Oliver’s death on Jan. 17. Please give that a listen.



By allowing food to rotate over the coals, from hot to cold zones, the TurboGrill not only keeps your food from burning, it allows food to cook very evenly and retain more moisture; creating a very succulent; crispy on the outside, moist on the inside, results.


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Filed Under: Outdoor Cooking Tagged With: outdoor grilling, TurboGrill, Weber Ad-on

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In Home Of Original Sriracha Sauce, Thais Say Rooster Brand Is Nothing To Crow About

January 22, 2019 By Weber Modifications

January 16, 20194:49 AM ETHeard on Morning Edition

MICHAEL SULLIVAN

Sriraja Panich is the brand name of one of two Sriracha sauces created by Saowanit Trikityanukul’s family. The family sold the brand to Thaitheparos, Thailand’s leading sauce company, in the 1980s. The brand has struggled to gain a foothold in the U.S., where the Huy Fong Rooster brand of Sriracha, created by Vietnamese-American David Tran, reigns supreme.Michael Sullivan/for NPR

Sriracha sauce. It’s everywhere. Even beer and donuts. The fiery chili paste concocted by Vietnamese-American immigrant David Tran has conquered the American market and imagination in the past decade.

But the original Sriracha is actually Thai — and comes from the seaside city of Si Racha, where most residents haven’t even heard of the U.S. brand, which is now being exported to Thailand.

I decided to go to the source to get the dirt on the sauce, and sat down with 71-year-old Saowanit Trikityanukul. Her grandmother was making Sriracha sauce when David Tran was still a baby, in what was then South Vietnam.

“If my grandmother was still alive today, she’d be 127 years old,” Saowanit says, sitting in her garden in Si Racha, (the preferred anglicized spelling of the city’s name) overlooking the Gulf of Thailand. She remembers helping her grandmother in the kitchen as an impatient 9-year-old.

“My job was to mix all the ingredients together. But I wasn’t very happy doing it and I didn’t really pay attention. I regret that now,” she says. “Because I could have learned a lot.”

Enlarge this image

Saowanit Trikityanukul, 71, remembers helping her grandmother make Sriracha sauce when she was a child.Michael Sullivan/for NPR

Her grandmother is widely credited with being the first to make and sell the sauce. But Saowanit says it was really her great–grandfather, Gimsua Timkrajang, who made it first. Family lore says he traveled a lot on business to neighboring Myanmar, Cambodia and Laos and noticed they all had different sauces — sweet, salty, sour — but nothing that combined all three.

“So, my great-grandfather got an idea that he wanted to make one sauce that went along with all Thai foods,” she says, “very creamy and different from other sauces.”

And he got it. Not that it was easy making it. Saowanit remembers one batch that took weeks, even months, to prepare.

“We had to prepare the ingredients like pickled garlic, so we had to peel the garlic to make sure it was good,” she says. “And the the chilis had to be perfectly red. And then the salt — my grandmother would only choose the big chunks and boil it, then filter and strain it … and leave it in the sun until it dried.”

The family originally made the sauce just for themselves and their friends. Then her grandmother’s sister and brother started selling their own versions in Si Racha, where its harmonious blend of chilis, garlic, salt and vinegar appeals to both locals and tourists from nearby Bangkok. But the family never patented the name.

“We didn’t want to keep it to ourselves,” she says, adding that it wasn’t much of a secret anyway — the ingredients were there on the side of the bottles for everyone to see. Soon there were dozens of imitators in Si Racha and beyond. Including, eventually, the Terminator of Srirachas, David Tran’s famous Rooster brand.

“He saw an opportunity and made his own business,” she says. She doesn’t begrudge him his success, but “why do they have to use our name? “Champagne is one kind of drink. Sriracha is one kind of sauce.”

And the American version is very different from what’s made here, she says. I’ve brought along a half-dozen local favorites for her to try, blindfolded, along with a bottle of the American interloper. She works her way through the Thai versions. Surprise! Her two favorites are the ones originally made by her grandmother’s siblings.

Gimsua Timkrajang, shown seated in this undated photo, was the first to make Sriracha sauce, according to his great-granddaughter. The sauce gets its name from Si Racha, the family’s seaside hometown in Thailand.Michael Sullivan/for NPR

I’m still impressed, though, that she can tell them apart blindfolded. They taste exactly the same to me. When it comes to the Rooster brand? After a tiny spoonful, she draws a sharp breath.

“It’s not tasty,” she says, taking a sip of water. “It’s not mixed together properly. There’s only one taste.” Saowanit says a proper Sriracha sauce needs to be what Thais call klom klom — the hotness, the sour, the sweet and the garlic all blending together seamlessly, none overpowering the other. The American version, she says, just brings heat.

I test her theory at a nearby restaurant where the lunchtime crowd is digging into their food. They seem surprised to learn there’s an American Sriracha. Tanpatha Punsawat is first on the spoon. “It’s hot,” she says carefully. “Very hot.”

But is it good, I ask?

“It’s OK,” she says politely. ( Loosely translated, her facial expression was “ugh.”) Her dining companion, Chuwet Kanja, tries next, rolling the Rooster around in his mouth. “No good,” he says, making a face. “When I first tasted it, I wanted to gag. Too bitter. It’s not klom klom.” I give him a spoonful of the leading Thai brand. He smiles and gives it a thumbs up. Order restored.

Reactions like these haven’t stopped importer Super Ting Tong from bringing the Rooster Brand to Thailand. And it’s showing up on more and more tables at upmarket eateries and on supermarket shelves in the capital, Bangkok.

“You know, it’s not an overnight success, but that’s OK, we’re working more on the slow and steady progression,” says Robert Booth, one of the founding partners of Super Ting Tong, who says the company has imported two container loads of the Rooster brand to Thailand in the past year and change. That’s about 60,000 bottles — enough to convince the company to order more. Super Ting Tong is a tongue-in-cheek name that roughly translates as “Super crazy” in Thai. And Booth admits the idea of importing Sriracha to Thailand has been met with some resistance.

“You occasionally run into some people who have very strong views about the Rooster brand not being the original Thai Sriracha, mostly the kind of angry Facebook trolls you would expect, ” Booth says. “But, given the love of spicy sauces and spicy foods in Thailand, I think there’s more than enough room to incorporate a new player in the market.”

Leading Thai manufacturer Thaitheparos, which bought the Sriraja Panich brand from Saowanit Trikityanukul’s family over 40 years ago, knows about slow starts. It has been exporting their Sriracha to the U.S. for more than a decade. It hasn’t been pretty.

“We try to tell people we’re the original Sriracha from Thailand,” says Varanya Winyarat, deputy managing director of Thaitheparos. “But when Americans try Sriracha sauce, they try the Vietnamese-American one first, so they think the taste should be like that.”

She’s frustrated and thinks maybe her father, who runs the company, should shell out more money for advertising and a new distributor. “Now we only sell in Asian supermarkets. We have to go mainstream,” she says.

“I think I have to educate them first what the sauce should taste like,” she says, adding, “you have to educate them about the basics of the taste first. Then I think they would understand. “

She’s not worried about the American Sriracha eating into market share here—”Thai people understand the real taste,” she says, almost dismissively.

But she admits David Tran’s Rooster brand has already crushed her hopes of conquering the U.S. market. But Varanya and export manager Paweena Kingpad say world Sriracha domination may still be in sight because of strong sales in another global Sriracha superpower: China.

“China is a big market for us — the biggest market, 100,000 bottles a month,” Paweena says.

When asked why their brand is doing so well in China, the two women look at each other and smile. “Because Asian people know how to eat,” Varanya says, giggling.

Game on, Rooster.


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